Haveli Dharampura

Start at the Sitaram Bazar in Old Delhi, where you'll be introduced to the people, monuments and food that make the city so special. Dhruv's family is one of the oldest in this part of Delhi – he's the fifth generation – and been leading these tours for 10 years. He believes people today want to connect with local culture when they travel and that’s exactly why he created this tour. It’s a great introduction to Delhi and is also inspired by his passion for food. The half-day trip is flexible and can be tailored to your specific interests, be it photography or history. It’s a personal experience that feels more like a friend showing you around. After meeting at the Chawri Bazar metro station, you will be taken to a breakfast place where you can make your own bread. You usually visit a temple next and then wander the back alleys of the bazar, stopping at hidden terraces where you get amazing views over Delhi. There’s also a chance to take a rickshaw ride and visit some architectural treasures. People enjoy spending time at Asia’s largest wholesale spice market and sampling street food favourites like samosas and pav bhaji. Finish with a big vegetarian meal at the haveli, which is an oasis in Delhi.

Most people use Delhi as a transit to other places but there’s so much the capital has to offer that time spent here is time well spent. With a diverse population of around 25 million, it’s a hub for Indian politics, delicious food and boasts the country’s largest wholesale markets. First time visitors generally assume that Old Delhi is the oldest part of the city but the oldest part is in fact located in New Delhi and around 1,200 years old. Old Delhi was the walled city out of Delhi’s seven medieval cities. Shahjahanbad, as it was originally called, was founded by the Mughal Emperor in 1648 who, when he moved the Mughal capital from Agra, built landmarks such as the resplendent Red Fort. The tour starts in Old Delhi visiting Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque, and then, on a cycle rickshaw, explore the famous Chandni Chowk bazaar where little has changed over 370 years. Then it’s onto Raj Ghat, a beautiful memorial to Mahatama Gandhi before venturing to New Delhi driving by the government buildings including Parliament and the old Viceroy’s House built by the British. After a break for lunch, you will visit Humayun’s tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal. The final stop is the UNESCO-credited Qutab Minar especially stunning when illuminated in the evening.

The tour starts at around 5.30pm exploring on foot, as your guide explains the evolution of Old Delhi. You’ll see various businesses and have the opportunity to sit with people and hear about their lives. You might meet the ear-cleaning-man, who wears a red hat and carries tools to remove wax from people’s ears – it’s a great photo opportunity as is the chai vendors swirling tea in their metal pans. As you walk, your guide will point out religious landmarks like the Sunehri Masjid and Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a Sikh temple with a community kitchen. The highlight of the trip though is always the food. You will have dinner at Karim’s (guest to pay directly), a restaurant that serves Mughlai cuisine. It was set up in the 1940s by Karim, a chef who served in the kitchen of a Mughal emperor and wanted to introduce this food to ordinary people. The dishes have a Persian influence and include lots of bread and kormas, all cooked in an open kitchen. Afterwards, wander around the street food area where you can sample desserts like bread pudding and mango ice cream. You’ll get to try everything from samosas to chai – food is a very important part of experiencing Old Delhi.